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How To Store Firewood
So It Stays Dry

Wood takes moisture back from the air for as long as it exists. A full transit of properly dried hardwood can be disappointing wood by January, entirely because of where you put it.

6 min read Written for Dorset

Dry wood does not stay dry

This is the part nobody tells you when you buy firewood. Wood is hygroscopic — it takes moisture from the air and gives it back, continuously, for as long as it exists. A log dried to 18% in a kiln will happily climb back to 25% or worse if you leave it somewhere damp.

So the £420 you spent on a full transit of properly dried hardwood in October can be £420 of disappointing wood by January, entirely because of where it sat. It is the cheapest mistake to avoid and the most common one we see.

What you are protecting against

Rain from above, ground moisture from below, and still damp air that never moves. Wood copes with cold, wind and frost perfectly well — frost actually helps. It is standing water and stagnant air that ruin a stack.

The three rules

1. Off the ground

Ground moisture wicks straight up into the bottom layer and then sideways into the rest. A stack sitting on soil, grass or even a concrete slab will have a wet, mouldy bottom course by spring.

Pallets are the classic answer and usually free. Gravel, paving slabs, bearers, scaffold boards, a couple of fence rails — anything that gets air under the pile works. You need 50mm of clear air underneath, not much more.

2. Covered on top only

Rain needs to be kept off, so the top of the stack wants a roof: a sheet of corrugated, a lean-to, a proper log store, or a tarp weighted down over the top third and no further.

3. Open at the sides

This is the one people get wrong, and it is worth its own section below. Air has to move through the stack. Without airflow, the moisture the wood gives off has nowhere to go, and it condenses back onto the wood.

Roof on. Sides open. Bottom off the floor.That is the whole of it. Everything else — log stores, stacking patterns, bark up or bark down — is refinement on those three.

The mistake nearly everyone makes

Wrapping the whole stack in a tarp.

It is the instinctive thing to do and it is the worst thing you can do. A tarp all the way round turns the pile into a sealed box. Wood gives off moisture, the moisture cannot escape, it condenses on the inside of the tarp, runs back down into the wood, and by February you have a stack that is wetter than the day it arrived and growing something.

We have been called out to look at “bad wood” more than once and found perfectly good kiln dried logs that spent three months inside a sealed blue tarp. The wood was fine when it left us.

If a tarp is all you have

Cover the top and let it hang down over the top third of the sides at most. Weight it along the top rather than tucking it underneath. The stack needs to breathe from the sides even if the top is sealed.

Where to put it

LocationVerdictWhy
Open-fronted log storeBestRoof, raised floor, open front. Exactly the three rules.
Against a south or west wallVery goodThe wall sheds rain, the sun and prevailing wind dry it.
Under a lean-to or carportGoodRoofed and airy. Keep it off the slab on bearers.
Garage or shedMixedDry but often still. Fine if there is any ventilation.
Sealed outbuildingPoorNo airflow. The wood sweats and stays damp.
Under a tarp on the lawnWorstGround moisture up, condensation down, no air through.

Two practical points beyond the technical ones. First, put it somewhere you will actually walk to in the rain — the store at the bottom of the garden gets used far less than the one by the back door, and a household that cannot face the walk ends up burning whatever is nearest instead.

Second, keep a few days’ worth indoors. Bringing logs into the warm for 48 hours before burning takes the surface damp off and makes a noticeable difference to how they light.

No dry space at all?

Ton bags are craned off and set down where you point, and the bag itself keeps the worst off. Dearer per cubic metre, and the right call if the alternative is a soaking heap.

See Load Sizes

How long it keeps

Stored properly, seasoned and kiln dried hardwood is good for two to three years without meaningfully degrading. Ash and oak will sit happily for longer than that. There is no rush to burn a load through in one winter, so buying a full transit that lasts you two seasons is perfectly sensible if you have the room.

Stored badly, the same wood can be unusable in a single winter. Beech is the first to go — it rots faster than the others when it stays wet — followed by birch. Oak is the most forgiving and will tolerate poor storage longer than anything else on the list.

Signs a stack has gone wrong: white or green mould on the cut faces, bark falling off in sheets, a musty smell, and logs that feel heavier than they look. If it hisses at the ends when it burns, that is water boiling out and the storage is the culprit.

If you are drying green wood yourself rather than storing dry wood, the rules are the same but the timescales are different — see how to season firewood.

Storage Questions

Keeping It Dry

How should I store firewood outside?
Off the ground on pallets or bearers, covered on top only, and open at the sides so air can move through the stack. An open-fronted log store against a south or west-facing wall is close to ideal. What you must not do is wrap the whole pile in a tarp.
Can I cover firewood with a tarpaulin?
Over the top, yes. All the way round, no. A fully wrapped stack traps the moisture the wood gives off, it condenses on the inside of the tarp and runs back into the logs. We have seen perfectly good kiln dried wood ruined in a single winter this way. Cover the top third at most and weight it down.
Does firewood go bad in storage?
Stored properly it keeps for two to three years with no meaningful loss. Stored badly it can be unusable in one winter. Look for white or green mould on the cut faces, bark coming away in sheets, a musty smell, or logs that feel heavier than they look.
Should I store firewood in the garage?
It works if there is some ventilation. A garage keeps the rain off and that is most of the battle, but a completely sealed space with no airflow lets the wood sweat and stay damp. Keep it off the concrete on bearers and leave a door or vent open where you can.
How long should firewood dry before burning?
Everything we sell as seasoned or kiln dried is ready the day it arrives — no further drying needed. Only our unseasoned firewood needs time, and that is 12 to 18 months stacked properly. Bringing any wood indoors for a couple of days before burning takes the surface damp off and helps it light.
Is it better to store logs bark up or bark down?
Bark up, if you are stacking outside without a roof, because the bark sheds water. Under a proper cover it makes very little difference and is not worth agonising over. Airflow through the stack matters far more than which way round each log sits.

Buy it dry. Keep it dry. Burn it well.

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